As someone who’s from Los Angeles, I pride myself on knowing good Mexican food. Just where I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, I can think of five different restaurants that have Mexican food better than I’ve ever experienced anywhere else, except maybe in Mexico, and that’s not even counting the pop-up street corner taquerias.
So when I moved to Seattle, I felt I was missing an integral part of my diet.
Where are the incredible taquerias I used to frequent? What about places that perfectly balance the rice-bean-meat ratio within their burritos? What about enchiladas that are drenched in salsa to the perfect extent? Or tamales that have mastered the art of flavorful masa?
For two years, I couldn’t find this close to home in the U-District.
Sure, there was Agua Verde, and of course there was always the trusty 24-hour Memos, but I wanted something a bit more authentic; I wanted something that tasted like home. So when I saw the sign hanging in an empty storefront on the Ave — “Rancho Bravo, Coming Soon” — I allowed my tastebuds to buzz with anticipation.
After what seemed like an eternity of waiting, Rancho Bravo opened a couple weeks ago, and I felt lucky to discover that my wanting tastebuds were not disappointed. And neither were my other senses.
Upon walking in, the smell was instantly welcoming — one of fried tortillas and traditional Mexican spices — and I knew it would be a good place to sit in rather than take out from. I enjoyed the clean and bright aesthetic. Unlike some other, more dreary, run-down restaurants on the Ave and some of the other Rancho Bravo branches such as the ones in Capitol Hill and Wallingford, this one had a pleasant sit down area with bright blues, greens, yellows, reds, and oranges throughout. I ordered at the counter and took my seat at a blue and green booth while I waited for my food to be prepared.
I, of course, had to try a sample of many menu items to get a good idea of whether or not this restaurant was up to par. So I tried a veggie and cheese tamale and also a veggie taco salad. I don’t eat meat frequently, so I had two accomplices of mine try out the carnitas burrito and the pork tamale.
My dishes were delicious. The veggie and cheese tamale maintained traditional mexican flavors throughout, and the masa was neither grainy nor mushy. The cheese, however, did bind in a way in which I found myself taking bites containing large chunks of cheese; the cheese could have been better distributed throughout the tamale.
The taco salad also brought me satisfaction. While some restaurants might be inclined to pack the salad with the least filling, cheapest ingredients, this salad was packed full of grilled onions and peppers, salsas, black beans, a chipotle dressing, corn, and crunched up tortilla chips. I did feel the need to add some spice to my salad, as I like things spicier than average usually, but besides that addition, there was little about the salad I would have changed.
My two food-collaborators informed me that their meals, too, were incredibly tasty. I was told the burrito was not too heavy on the rice, which was appreciated because it was filled with plenty of carnitas and beans. However, as far as the tamales go, you might be better off sticking with the veggie tamale. There was overall more flavorful masa throughout that one as opposed to the pork version.
So was it the same as the fresh, authentic Mexican food where I grew up? Not quite.
To be fair, though, for it to be as fresh as what I grew up with, the pico de gallo would need to taste like it was picked off the vine and chopped up within the last 24 hours; and I can’t say that of any tomato, onion, and jalepeño combination I’ve eaten north of California.
But it did give me the same nostalgic satisfaction I hadn’t had since I’ve lived in Seattle.
And as far as places go on the Ave, it is undoubtedly more inviting than some of the others I usually frequent. The others may be as tasty, but don’t have the same cute ambiance.
The verdict: If you want incredible Mexican food, go south of the border, but if you want a decently authentic place on the Ave, check out Rancho Bravo.
Reach Opinion Editor Rebecca Gross at arts@dailyuw.com. Twitter: @becsgross
